Coat for men: how to choose and wear it well

The cold season is no reason to forget style and elegance. A well-chosen coat will make you look good in any situation. But what is the right coat, how to choose it and what to wear it with? You will find the answers to these questions in this article.

History of the men’s coat

Today, it’s hard to imagine autumn and winter without a warm and cosy coat, but this wardrobe item doesn’t have a long history. The first modern coat-like garment was sewn in 17th century Spain. The warm cloak with a hood was given the name palletoque, which literally translates as “cloak with a cap”. In Spain, these garments were most often worn by peasants. The coat had a different fate in Holland. 

The seventeenth century was a period of Spanish expansion in this region, which later became known as the Spanish Netherlands. Here, prototype coats became an attribute of the royal toilette. But the familiar pattern took shape much later in another part of Europe.

Nineteenth-century English aristocrats sought to diversify their wardrobe. This was often out of practical necessity, as in the case of Marshal Raglan. After a serious injury, he had problems with his arm, so he asked his tailors to make him a bespoke piece. This model was so successful that the raglan coat became a classic in men’s wardrobes. Many models, still popular today, were created in England to the specifications of the aristocracy.

Typology of men’s coats

Today, a number of men’s coats have become classics. They are brilliant representatives of the English style. Despite a certain similarity, each classic coat model has individual characteristics and a different history.

The Classic Coat

This is a staple of the male wardrobe. Popular since the mid-eighteenth century, this pattern has never been given a name, but it can be recognised by a number of characteristics. 

Features:

• 6-8 buttons (double-breasted models), 3-4 buttons (single-breasted coats);
• Pointed lapels;
• Straight or slightly fitted cut;
• Dark colour.

What to wear with it? 

As the name suggests, this style is best combined with classic clothes and shoes. The classic coat will work well with suits and dinner jackets. Brogues will complete the festive image.

 The trench coat

This classic model of the men’s wardrobe also has another name: the barberry. It comes from Thomas Barberry, who invented the coat for the military during the Anglo-Boer War. The officers wore a cloak made of durable, water-repellent fabric that they bought at their own expense. Ordinary soldiers could not afford a trench coat.

Features:

• Wide sleeves (straps may be present at the cuffs);
• Double breasted;
• 6 buttons;
• Slit in the back;
• Belt;
• May have shoulder pads.

What to wear with it

Remember that the trench coat is worn during the cold season, so opt for a suit fitting or a warm jumper. That way, you won’t make the mistake of choosing a model that is too narrow. The ideal length of a coat is 90-120 cm (depending on the size of the wearer), and the sleeves of the coat should be 3 cm longer than the sleeves of the jacket. 

The trench coat is an important part of the wardrobe, which should be combined with classic suits and shoes. A less formal look can consist of a trench coat, jeans (without holes or scratches), a jumper and classic shoes (monkeys, derbies). Don’t pair the trench coat with trainers! Complete the look with simple but useful accessories: an umbrella stick and a hat!

Crombie 

The history of this model is inseparable from the history of the imperial families, and later the Politburo of the USSR. In the workshop where the crombie model was developed, clothes were created for the monarchs of England and Russia from the beginning of the 19th century. The hard coat is mostly created from the fabric in dark colours. It is not surprising that such rigour gave another name to the model – “diplomat”. Politicians at various levels over many decades prefer crombies.

Features :

• Hidden clasp;
• Iconic three-quarter length
• Two side pockets (one can be on the chest);
• One row of buttons on the front;
• A collar with pointed lapels.

What to wear with it?

Despite the strictness of the second name of this model, it is not only possible to combine interlacing with suits. The successful pairing will be jeans and loafers. It should not be forgotten that the coat is clothing for spring and autumn, so the combination with summer shoes (topsiders, trainers, loafers) is inadmissible.

Polo shirt

This coat has become a traditional garment of American polo athletes. The first variants of this model were as follows: a golden shade with a belt, which later gave way to buttons. 

Characteristics :

• camel wool (50% to 100%);
• brown or beige colour;
• double-shell model;
• 6 to 8 buttons
• pockets that are sealed;
• Large handcuffs

What to wear with it?

This model goes well with dark shades, light shirts. Because of the V-cut, the top must be chosen carefully. Show off the image with a nice scarf or bib.

Ulster

This tweed coat can be considered the fashionable heritage of Ireland, where it first appeared in the 1870s. The special feature of the early models were the palerines (wide overlaps on the shoulders), but by the turn of the century this detail ceased to exist.

• Characteristics:
• Long model
• 6 to 8 buttons
• sealed pockets;
• tweed (or other sheep’s wool material);
• High collar.

What to wear with it?

In terms of severity, the ulster and the polo are pretty much in the same wave. Combine it with classic jackets. It is important that the thickness of the jacket and the coat are not too different. Shortened styles can be combined with less formal clothing.

General rules for choosing coats

A good coat is a wool coat. Do not rely on the durability of cheap fabric. A good quality model is a combination of wool and cashmere.

The cuffs should be closed, but the sleeves should not be rolled up. The cuffs of the modern coat are only a few centimetres longer than those of the jacket. To avoid getting cold, wear warm gloves.

The length of the coat depends on the status and situation of the man. Although the coat looks particularly elegant at the ankle on gentlemen, the urban environment is not ideal for long styles. A knee-length or mid-thigh length coat will be just as elegant and will not create discomfort.

The size of the coat is very important! If you choose a coat that is too tight, it will not be able to include layers of clothing. If you choose a coat that is too large, you will ruin your look. How do you know which coat size is right? It’s not complicated : 

• The coat that fits you has a snug shoulder; 
• It easily covers a jumper (not too tight);
• The buttons on the coat close easily;
• The sleeves slightly cover the cuffs.